Readying the Field

This last week has been pretty bru­tally hot, sunny and humid — it’s sum­mer time! It feels good to be dirty and sweaty after so many months of star­ing out at the field waiting.

At the same time, I’m real­iz­ing that I should have worked a lit­tle harder to get myself in shape this win­ter.    We laid down black plas­tic mulch the other day over the bot­tom 6 rows in the gar­den. That’s where we’re plan­ning on plant­ing the toma­toes, pep­per and egg­plants, and the black plas­tic warms up the soil and sup­presses weeds. After a full day of bend­ing, stand­ing and squat­ting my legs were screaming.

The black lines along the rows are drip tape, part of the irri­ga­tion sys­tem we bought at Brook­dale Farm in New Hamp­shire. Each row has a line of tape that will slowly drip water through­out the day. They all con­nect at the end of the rows to a main line that we’ll run down the side of the field and will hook up to a gar­den hose. This sys­tem uses much less water than hand water­ing would and will save us a lot of time  and effort.

Rolling out the plas­tic mulch
We dug a trench and buried it on either side of the row
Notice the drip tape lines going under the plastic
Fin­ished!
Mean­while, our tomato, pep­per and egg­plants are hard­en­ing off out­side, get­ting ready to be planted tomor­row. We’ll just cut a hole through the plas­tic and put them in the ground. It’s good they’re going in the ground, they’ve got­ten really big.

Hooray, we have a field!

It took two days but the fields are all laid out and we’re going to start plant­ing tomorrow!

We made 30 inch rows  (so we can work in them and step over them eas­ily) and 16 inch walk­ways (16″ because that was the size of our biggest rake). The rows curve with the topog­ra­phy of the land because there’s a pretty sig­nif­i­cant slope and we want to catch as much water as pos­si­ble as it flows down­hill. If the rows were straight, a lot of water would just col­lect in the paths and flow down into the wet area in the mid­dle of the field, but this way the water will col­lect against the beds and fil­ter slowly through.
We used a cou­ple dif­fer­ent meth­ods for rak­ing the dirt, every­one had their favorite ways to do it, but basi­cally we laid out the 30 inch beds using a home­made “scrib­ing tool” (basi­cally a cou­ple of stakes drilled onto a piece of wood 30″ apart)
and then we pro­ceeded to alter­nate between rak­ing up the dirt on either side and rak­ing it down the mid­dle to cre­ate path­ways. It was pretty exhaust­ing dirty work, but also very sat­is­fy­ing, the gar­den is finally com­ing together and it’s so nice to be out­side in the sun! We all got sunburnt.
In a cou­ple of the walk­ways we put down card­board and straw to keep down the weeds and cre­ate a path. The card­board we’ve been get­ting from super­mar­ket pro­duce boxes and from a bike shop in Con­cord (bikes come in big card­board boxes). It’s going to be pretty hard to col­lect enough card­board to put down on these rows, how­ever, so we’re going to plant some in clover instead.
Our Aer­ial Shot: from on top of the lum­ber racks on the back of Dave’s pickup
The bot­tom cor­ner is going to become one big tri­an­gu­lar bed, prob­a­bly for cucumbers.
It’s been a long cou­ple of days but we can finally start planting!

New House for the Pigs

I recently com­pleted the pig’s new shel­ter for when they are relo­cated onto pas­ture. I knew that I wanted to build a sim­ple A-frame for them, so I looked around online and found some plans from an exten­sion ser­vice from the 60s. This is a very clas­sic design. The only dif­fer­ence is that the plans called for doors, but I decided not to add them because it just doesn’t seem nec­es­sary. My pigs won’t be around in the win­ter and if at some point I do keep pigs over win­ter, they prob­a­bly wont be out on pas­ture any­way. This is sim­ply the pig’s sum­mer home.

My goal was to build the house as inex­pen­sively as pos­si­ble and to use as many free/recycled mate­ri­als as I could find. At first I thought it was going to be dif­fi­cult to get what I needed for free since its all dimen­sional lum­ber and sheet goods, but it worked out pretty well. After a some­what awk­ward con­ver­sa­tion with the lum­ber­yard man­ager at Lit­tle­ton Lum­ber, they took me around back and fork­lifted down a huge stack of 2x4s and 2x6s for me. They were all recy­cled and had lots of nail holes and some sta­ples in them. And they were pretty twisted and checked, but there were a lot of long lengths, a bunch of 16′ and 12’ers. So I said thank you very much and took the whole stack.
I had 5 sheets of Tex­ture 1–11 ply­wood which were left over from some project. I found them in the garage and I have no idea how they got there. Tex­ture 1–11 is ply­wood that some­what resem­bles barn boards. Its kind of hokey stuff, but it was free and for this pur­pose it actu­ally was per­fect. It looks nicer than nor­mal exte­rior ply­wood at least.
I was really happy with how effi­ciently I was able to use my mate­ri­als. I used all 5 sheets of the tex­ture 1–11, with very lit­tle scrap left over. The tri­an­gu­larly shaped sec­tions in the pic above were all cut out from one 8′ long strip. The only mate­ri­als that I ended up buy­ing were:
(2) pres­sure treated 4x4s (for skids)
(2) 4x8 sheets 3/4″ exte­rior grade ply­wood (for the floor)
(1) gal­va­nized steel ridge roll
screws, glue, and paint
All together, I don’t think I spent more than $150.
All the fram­ing I did with dry­wall screws and then I attached the ply­wood to the frame with glue and nails (using my new fin­ish nailer). I found this glue that Tite­bond makes called Interior/Exterior Wood Con­struc­tion Adhe­sive which I really liked. You apply it with a caulk gun so its great for these projects when you need to get a lot of glue on quickly.
I took an old can of paint from when the barn was re-painted and got it cloned so the pig house matches all the outbuildings.
I drilled through the skids and installed a loop of chain with 1/2″ hex bolts so that the house can quickly be hooked up to the trac­tor. The house will be mov­ing every month or so with the pigs as they are rotated through the pasture.
And here it is, all the way out at the end of the field! I can’t wait to get the pigs out there. I will be set­ting up the fenc­ing tomor­row, so hope­fully I’ll be mov­ing the pigs in a few days.

Wendell Berry Passage

“Eric Gill sees in this indus­trial dis­mem­ber­ment of labor a cru­cial dis­tinc­tion between mak­ing and doing, and he describes ‘the degra­da­tion of the mind’ that is the result of the shift from mak­ing to doing. This degra­da­tion of the mind can­not, of course, be with­out con­se­quences. One obvi­ous con­se­quence is the degra­da­tion of prod­ucts. When work­ers’ minds are degraded by loss of respon­si­bil­ity for what is being made, they can­not use judg­ment; they have no use for their crit­i­cal fac­ul­ties; they have no occa­sions for the exer­cise of work­man­ship, of work­manly pride. And the con­sumer is degraded by loss of oppor­tu­nity for qual­i­ta­tive choice. This is why we must now buy our clothes and imme­di­ately re-sew the but­tons; it is why our expen­sive pur­chases quickly become junk.

With indus­tri­al­iza­tion has come a gen­eral depre­ci­a­tion of work. As the pice of work has gone up, the value of it has gone down, until it is now so depressed that peo­ple sim­ply do not want to do it any­more. We can say with­out exag­ger­a­tion that the present national ambi­tion of the United States is unem­ploy­ment. Peo­ple live for quit­ting time, for week­ends, for vaca­tions and for retire­ment; more­over, this ambi­tion seems to be class­less, as true in the exec­u­tive suites as on the assem­bly lines. One works not because the work is nec­es­sary, valu­able, use­ful to a desir­able end, or because one loves to do it, but only to be able to quit — a con­di­tion that a saner time would regard as infer­nal, a con­dem­na­tion. This is explained, of course, by the dull­ness of the work, by the loss of respon­si­bil­ity for, or credit for, or knowl­edge of the thing made. What can be the sta­tus of the work­ing small farmer in a nation whose motto is a sigh of relief: “Thank God it’s Friday”?

But there is an even more impor­tant con­se­quence: By the dis­mem­ber­ment of work, by the degra­da­tion of our minds as work­ers, we are denied our high­est call­ing, for, as Gill says, ‘every man is called to give love to the work of his hands. Every man is called to be an artist’ (Gill, A Holy Con­di­tion of Work­ing). The small fam­ily farm is one of the last places — they are get­ting rarer every day — where men and women (and girls and boys, too) can answer that call to be an artist, to learn to give love to the work of their hands. It is one of the last places where the maker — and some farm­ers sill do talk about ‘mak­ing the crops’ — is respon­si­ble, from start to fin­ish, for the thing made. This cer­tainly has a spir­i­tual value, but it is not for that rea­son an imprac­ti­cal or uneco­nomic one. In fact, from the exer­cise of this respon­si­bil­ity, this giv­ing of love to the work of the hands, the farmer, the farm, the con­sumer, and the nation all stand to gain in the most prac­ti­cal was: They gain the means of life, the good­ness of food, and the longevity and depend­abil­ity of the sources of food, both nat­ural and cul­tural. The proper answer to the spir­i­tual call­ing becomes, in turn, the proper ful­fill­ment of phys­i­cal need.”

– Wen­dell Berry, A Defense of the Fam­ily Farm


Rainy Week

Those of you who live in the Mass­a­chu­setts area can prob­a­bly empathize with me when I say that this past week has been the absolute worst.

We woke up on Mon­day morn­ing and real­ized almost imme­di­ately that there was no way we were going to be able to per­form the final till on Wednes­day, it was cold, rainy and dreary and — accord­ing to the weather report — there was no end in sight. Nat­u­rally, this real­iza­tion was fol­lowed by a cou­ple hours of mop­ing, finger-pointing and rock-kicking. Why hadn’t we paid atten­tion to the weather report and tilled on Fri­day when it was still sunny and dry? What were we going to do all week in the mud and the rain? Was our sum­mer har­vest ruined by one poor deci­sion? Was it a poor deci­sion? What was worse, to till too soon and face the weeds or to be plant­ing our field at the very end of May? And what to do with all those crazy two month old tomato plants over­run­ning the greenhouse????
Well I’m writ­ing now to say, we did it! We slogged through the muddy, rainy week and now we’re pulling our­selves out the other side alive and well (except for a cou­ple of chick­ens — but that’s a story for another post). We planted some more in the kitchen gar­den, did some Spring clean­ing, built a shel­ter for the pigs and got the tomato plants out­side where they’re hard­en­ing off. Now we’re glued to the weather report  hop­ing it’s going to dry out in the next cou­ple of days so we can get our fields up and run­ning and our trans­plants in the ground. Who knows if we made the “right” deci­sion, or if there even is a “right” deci­sion, but we’re forg­ing ahead.
And as the weather improves, so do our moods. I see sun so I’ve got to get out­side, but here are some pictures.
We’re using a cou­ple empty raised beds to keep tomato plants out­side. We have wire hoops ready if we need to tarp them against the cold at night.
Flower trans­plants
Build­ing the pig shelter

Fencing Plot

Here is the plot I made for our elec­tric fenc­ing. I mea­sured all the dis­tances with a 200′ tape mea­sure and marked trees that I could use as posts with orange tape as I went. Then, I over­laid this plan onto an exist­ing map of the prop­erty that I have.

I for­got to put on the map that the size of the small field is 100’x50’. I sent this into Wellscroft and I’m wait­ing to hear back on a quote.

Berries

The days are get­ting busier and busier. i can’t believe we’re only one week from plant­ing the fields! In the mean­time, we’ve been plant­ing the kitchen gar­den and putting in berry patches. We ordered 12 rasp­ber­ries plants, 6 black­berry plants and about 60 straw­berry plants. They all came dor­mant and bare-rooted, wrapped in plas­tic. The rasp­berry and black­berry plants basi­cally looked like lit­tle sticks with roots on them.

It’s nice to have a rea­son to be happy about rainy, cloudy days this spring. It’s much bet­ter for the plants  to trans­fer them when it’s wet and over­cast. Luck­ily, Tues­day morn­ing, when Mom and I planted the berry patch, was pretty gloomy. First, we mea­sured out a spot for them between the drive way and the tilled fields. Our berry patch is 24′ x 9′. We have 3 rows of rasp­ber­ries 6′ apart (4 plants each) and 2 rows of black­ber­ries (3 plants each). Each plant is 3′ apart. We planted them right into the ground, sur­round­ing each bush/stick with a cou­ple good shovel-fulls of com­post. Next, we took card­board and cov­ered the ground all around the plants to smother the grass and weeds. Mom’s been going to a bike shop and pick­ing up card­board boxes for the last cou­ple of months, so we have a lot of big card­board boxes saved up in the garage. We laid down com­post around the rows of plants and wood-chips (free, from some tree guys that were chip­ping logs up the street) down on the paths.

Card­board, com­post and chips

Then we planted the straw­berry plants in the com­post between the black­berry and rasp­ber­ries bushes.

We’ve since had to put up tem­po­rary fenc­ing around the perime­ter to keep the dogs from chew­ing on the black­berry and rasp­berry sticks/bushes.
Unfor­tu­nately we prob­a­bly won’t get any straw­ber­ries this year but we should have rasp­ber­ries and black­ber­ries by the fall! We have also planted 10 blue­berry bushes in the wet area between our two fields.
Zen Moment:

There’s more than one way to fence a pig

Hello, blog read­ers. This is my first blog post ever. Gal­lagher has been threat­en­ing to rescind my abil­ity to post for months, but I finally did it! Hope­fully, I will get used to this and be a reg­u­lar con­trib­u­tor in the future.

On Sat­ur­day I went to a fenc­ing clinic at Wellscroft Farm in south­ern New Hamp­shire. There they oper­ate both a work­ing live­stock farm and and a fenc­ing com­pany called Wellscroft Fenc­ing Sys­tems. They are very nice, very help­ful, and extremely knowl­edge­able peo­ple. The owner, David Ken­nard, in addi­tion to being a full time farmer and boarder col­lie breeder/trainer, is also the self-proclaimed “Portable Net Fenc­ing KING of New Eng­land.” It was a great clinic and I learned A LOT about fenc­ing in one day.  When I told peo­ple I was going to an elec­tric fenc­ing clinic 1 1/2 hours away from the farm, the reac­tions were some­what mixed. Most peo­ple were sup­port­ive, but some basi­cally said, “why would you need to go to a clinic?” I am an elec­tri­cian after all (albeit not a licensed one), and there­fore the assump­tion is that I should be able to hook a stu­pid wire up to a fence and not elec­tro­cute myself too badly in the process. How hard could it be? This is some­what true. The answer is that I did not go to the clinic to learn how a fence ener­gizer works, or what the dif­fer­ence between volt­age and amper­age is. I luck­ily already under­stand these con­cepts. What makes fenc­ing com­pli­cated and worth learn­ing about, for me, is that there are so many dif­fer­ent options and vari­a­tions, so many ways to do it. And believe me, its very con­fus­ing and frus­trat­ing to design a fenc­ing sys­tem if you have no expe­ri­ence with it. My rea­son for going to the clinic was to deter­mine the best, most effi­cient (both in terms of work and cost) method for fenc­ing my pigs and specif­i­cally what equip­ment I would need. I fig­ured it would be easy one stop shop­ping. I’d sit and lis­ten to a lit­tle sales pitch, ask some ques­tions, and buy what I needed.

The clinic was sur­pris­ingly well attended—around 100 peo­ple showed up at 8:30 for cof­fee and donuts, fol­lowed by a fast paced talk by David Ken­nard on the basics of elec­tric fenc­ing. In 2 ½ hours he cov­ered how fence ener­giz­ers work, the dif­fer­ent types of ener­giz­ers (AC, bat­tery, solar), ground­ing tech­niques, light­ning pro­tec­tion, mon­i­tor­ing volt­age and trou­bleshoot­ing, train­ing ani­mals to the fence, dif­fer­ent types of elec­tric fenc­ing (per­ma­nent, semi-permanent, and portable), and much more.


A few things that I took away from this talk:

  • Ener­gizer all have the same basic inter­nal com­po­nents in that they all run off DC (direct cur­rent, e.g. bat­ter­ies) power. The AC (alter­nat­ing cur­rent, e.g. an out­let in your home) mod­els sim­ply have a rec­ti­fier built in and the solar mod­els are sim­ply DC bat­tery pow­ered units that have solar pan­els attached to to them. Many of the mod­els can run off of AC or DC right out of the box. If you want to run it off a bat­tery, you just need to buy a 12v deep cycle marine or reg­u­lar car bat­tery. If you want to run it solar, you need to buy a bat­tery and a solar panel.

  • Ani­mals need to be trained to the fence. The best way to do this is to set up the elec­tric fence inside of an exist­ing per­ma­nent fence or pen. Then you bait the fence leav­ing some grain or other food right on the other side of it. Once the ani­mal gets a shock they will not test it again. It is espe­cially impor­tant with pigs to train them with a wooden or wire fence behind the elec­tric fence because pigs, unlike other ani­mals, will often charge through the elec­tric fence the first time they get a shock.

  • Ground­ing is extremely impor­tant. If your fence, clogged with weeds and grass, is a bet­ter ground than your actual ground rod, then you have a prob­lem. The fence must be clean and you need at least one 4′ long gal­va­nized steel ground rod dri­ven, prefer­ably into damp soil. The wet­ter the bet­ter. You can even ground straight into a pond if you have one nearby. Addi­tional ground rods can be added as needed, but must be 10′ apart. And finally, all ground rods for your fence must me more than 30′ from your util­ity ground, or you will get elec­tri­cal inter­fer­ence on your 120v sys­tem.

  • If you need to ground a portable sys­tem quickly, and don’t want to drive a rod 4′ into the ground, you can take a sec­tion of fence or of wire mesh, attach your ground wire to it, and then just throw it down flat on the grass. Just make sure not to touch it once the sys­tem is on.

After the talk, we took a tour of the farm and David showed us all of the dif­fer­ent types of fenc­ing in action. This was extremely help­ful because it became more and more clear how ben­e­fi­cial elec­tric fenc­ing can be when it is set up exten­sively as a sys­tem to con­trol the entire farm. David talked a lot about rota­tional graz­ing and how he has designed his fenc­ing sys­tem with this model in mind. Rota­tional graz­ing is so impor­tant in any sus­tain­able live­stock model, and portable fenc­ing is what makes it pos­si­ble, both in terms of cost and labor, for small and large pro­duc­ers alike.

Inten­sive rota­tional graz­ing (IRG) is a pas­ture man­age­ment tech­nique that results in highly effi­cient usage of pas­ture as for­age as well as restora­tion of nutri­ents to the soil and an increased bio­mass. Graz­ing ani­mals are con­fined to a sec­tion of pas­ture for a brief period of time (the area and time are depen­dent on the type and num­ber of graz­ers) while the other sec­tions of pas­ture are allowed to rest. The idea is to find the right ratio of graz­ers to pas­ture size so that the for­age is con­sumed at an even rate and the manure is evenly spread. If you put 5 pigs on an acre of land, then they are going to poop in one spot, eat some grass here and there, root up some spots here, and maybe not even touch some areas. But if you take those pigs and you put them in a 1/4 acre or even smaller, then they will start to graze, root, and spread their manure more evenly.

After the pas­ture is exhausted (but not destroyed), the ani­mals are moved to another sec­tion and the pre­vi­ous sec­tion is allowed to recover. The ani­mals are pro­vided with unlim­ited fresh for­age. The manure begins to break down and seep into the soil prov­ing it with nutri­ents nec­es­sary to regrow. And if the tim­ing is right, this process keeps going on and on. Its really a beau­ti­ful thing.

This sys­tem work with any rumi­nants or non-ruminants that can get a por­tion of their diet from for­age. And it works espe­cially well when you bring more than one type of ani­mal into play. One of my favorite farm­ers, Joel Salatin, is the mas­ter of find­ing ways to achieve sym­bio­sis on the farm, to have every­thing play its part and in doing so cre­ate a closed loop. After his cows have exhausted a sec­tion of pas­ture, they move on to another and he moves his lay­ing hens onto the grazed down land. The lay­ing hens for­age for what­ever is left and also pick apart the fresh cow pat­ties look­ing for the insects that are already hatch­ing inside them. This breaks the manure down so it can leech into the field more efficiently.


 

pigs enclosed in a small pad­dock using pig netting

For our 4 pigs, we have about an acre of pas­ture and prob­a­bly 1 1/2 acres of woods. The plan that I have come up with after attend­ing the clinic is to sur­round the entire area with a perime­ter fence and then use net fenc­ing specif­i­cally designed for pigs to seg­ment it off into pad­docks. The perime­ter fence could and prob­a­bly should be per­ma­nent fenc­ing, ide­ally high ten­sile wire, but I don’t have the money for that. So I am going to install a semi-permanent fence using 2–3 strands of poly rope and I am going to run it through the woods using as many trees as pos­si­ble as posts. The perime­ter fence will run through the woods and then across the back of the pas­ture, through another sec­tion of woods and then back along the tree line, cre­at­ing a big U shape. I will then use one or two lines of pig net­ting to cre­ate a nar­row slice con­tain­ing pas­ture and woods that will be about ¼ acre total. The best thing about cre­at­ing the perime­ter fence is that it becomes my power source. I can put the ener­gizer at the begin­ning of the fence, which is close enough to an out­let to run it off AC, and then it will run all the way out though the woods to the far end of the field. So, when I set up my pig net­ting, all I need to do is clip it onto the perime­ter fence and it is ready to go. I will post a map of the fenc­ing plan soon.


 

We are con­sid­er­ing using elec­tric fenc­ing for the veg­etable fields as well. We need to keep both small crit­ters and deer out, so the plan is to use a 30” tall gar­den net­ting for the crit­ters and then run 2 strands of elec­tric tape above it to keep out deer. Small ani­mals will not dig under elec­tric fenc­ing like they will under con­ven­tional wire fences because their first instinct is to test the fence before dig­ging. Since I am already buy­ing the fence ener­gizer for the pigs, the cost of buy­ing the fenc­ing for the gar­den will cer­tainly be cheaper than putting in a per­ma­nent fence and it comes with the added ben­e­fit of being able to take it down in the fall if we need to plow again.

Welcome Home Piglets!

Well, I’m happy to report that the doxy­cy­cline seems to be doing it’s job and this week is promis­ing to be much bet­ter than the last one.

Just in time too, because we had four lit­tle piglets wait­ing for us in New Hamp­shire. Yes­ter­day morn­ing Dave put the fin­ish­ing touches on our piglet pen, we packed a cou­ple sand­wiches (and some of Becca Chapman’s famous oat­meal wal­nut pecan cook­ies), threw a cou­ple of old large dog crates in the back of the truck and pre­pared to make the trip north.

I made their bed for them
Dave’s Pig Trough
This pen used to belong to Wilbur, the Viet­namese Pot-bellied pig. But since he’s decided he’s more com­fort­able in the barn, it seemed like the per­fect place to keep our pig­gies for the first cou­ple weeks that they’re here before we’re ready to put them out to pasture.
After a beau­ti­ful two hour drive we arrived in Bath, NH, home to Clin­ton and his pig farm. We’ve emailed back and forth with a num­ber of dif­fer­ent poten­tial piglet sell­ers in the last cou­ple of months, some much closer to us than North­ern New Hamp­shire, but Clin­ton had impressed us both with his knowl­edge and his love of pigs. His barn con­tains tons of mama pigs and their lit­ters, and they all seem very happy and healthy. Clin­ton was hon­est, straight-forward and full of infor­ma­tion. In addi­tion, the piglets that we received had already been wormed and cas­trated, and were guar­an­teed not to die (he promised to replace them if they did).
Clinton’s Pig Farm
Clin­ton allowed us to pick from a cou­ple of dif­fer­ent lit­ters. We quickly iden­ti­fied which lit­ter was our favorite, and decided to take all our piglets from that one mama. It’s okay to mix lit­ters, but the pigs will often squab­ble at first, and we just liked the idea of keep­ing the broth­ers and sis­ters together so they would be more com­fort­able when we got them home. We picked out two match­ing red boys with black snouts, a white boy with a brown face and spot, and one lit­tle feisty girl with a white stripe across her back. We ruled out another larger girl because her tail was hang­ing straight and loose, which is often a sign that a pig isn’t feel­ing very well. Clin­ton picked them up one at a time by their back legs, try­ing to avoid the mama who appar­ently has a mean streak and is extra pro­tec­tive of her piglets, and loaded them into our dog crates. We had filled them with lots of hay to keep the piglets cozy and com­fort­able, and wrapped a tarp over the top to keep them out of the wind.
We checked on them once at a gas sta­tion on the way home and they seemed very com­fort­able and happy. Once we got them home, we placed them one by one in their new bed and watched as they rooted around in the hay for a lit­tle while and then stepped out to explore and dig around in their new pig pen.
In Other News:
The fence has been put up around the kitchen gar­den, so now we can start really plant­ing the raised beds in earnest.
Dave also har­rowed the field on Sun­day, so all the big sod clumps are bro­ken up and buried. Only one more week (to let the sod really break down under­ground) and we can start planting!
Disc Har­row: dragged behind a trac­tor, it cuts through strips of sod and breaks up the soil
Com­ing Soon: Piglet videos!
Mean­while…